We do a big production of doughs at the restaurant, one in particular is a tart dough. Even with careful measuring and cutting, it’s inevitable that there will be scraps. However, due to big production, these scraps pile up. Working with tart doughs, excessive gluten development is what we try to avoid, so to re-roll the scraps is out of the question. I wanted to figure out a way to limit the waste.
Then I got this idea; What if I placed the dough in the vacuum? The vacuum will then compress the dough without overworking it.
The result was unexpected:
The vacuum sealed dough became puff-pastry like, significantly higher than the regular tart dough. Eliminating all the air in the dough created a much flakier and higher crust.
So, here’s my theory: When tart dough is baked, the butter (surrounded by flour) creates steam that pushes the flour and result to a flaky crust. By compressing the dough, there’s more pressure on the butter. There is not enough air around the butter, so as it steams, it forces the flour surrounding it to move up higher due to the pressure. (It’s like those balloons that inflate themselves when you hit it.) Again, my theory.
I’m curious to see what it does to croissant, bread and pasta doughs. I will update on the subject as I test more.
It took me 3 weeks to compose this dish. I wanted to create a dish that is unexpectedly lacking an important pastry ingredient, flour. This dish completely is gluten-free, and chock full of delicious.
Also, I want to point out that, in a hurry, I quenelled the sorbet with the spoon below. Not a bad quenelle for using a flat-tipped spoon right? I’m going to see if I have the same talent by quenelling with a fork next time.
I always wanted to combine these flavors in a composed dessert, I’ve had the idea engraved in my mind for a while but I never really had the time to execute it. When I was asked to create a special for the dessert menu (my very first composed dessert to be sold), I thought that the flavors were seasonally fitting.
It’s gratifying to finally see an idea come to life on a plate; and even more satisfying to know that it’s a feeling that could be reproduced by discharging one’s vision.
caramelized apricot pudding
350 gr apricots
189 gr sugar
237 ml heavy cream
156 gr yolks
67 gr. cornstarch
1 vanilla bean
75 gr black berries
1 tbsp. sugar
1 lemon, juiced and zested
25 gr basil
80 gr water
80 gr sugar
105 gr hazelnut
80 gr water
80 gr sugar
32 gr honey
50 gr frangelico
I am making more desserts with a broken oven than with a working one. 2 posts in a week, strange.
My sister was craving a “black and white” pudding, a layered chocolate/vanilla dessert my mom last made when she was 7. When we moved a few years back, My mom’s recipe book where the “black and white pudding” resided, along with old golf trophies, somehow got lost in the move. My mom can’t seem to remember how to make it and here I am, 11 years later, trying to figure it out.
I bestowed myself a lot more creative access than I should. It wasn’t the “black and white” pudding my sister was looking for, but she wasn’t complaining.
I also had sodium alginate and calcium chloride hanging around, I thought I’d play around with spherification for old time’s sake. I made a Rum Honey Syrup Sphere. When you cut into the sphere, the rum syrup should gush out. (I have to say, I enjoy my sizzurp in spherical form)
33 grams cocoa
153 grams condensed milk
490 grams whole milk
30 grams yolks
13 grams cornstarch
On a medium flame, whisk cocoa, condensed milk and whole milk. temper the yolks and add to the mixture. Mix cornstarch and water and add to the mixture, whisking continuously until it thickens.
490 grams whole milk
300 grams condensed milk
12 grams gelatine
16 grams cornstarch
Heat whole milk and condensed milk. Hydrate gelatin and cornstarch with cold water. Add paste to the milk mixture and whisk until it thickens. pour over cooled chocolate budino.
Cocoa Hazelnut Crumb
120 grams butter
125 grams sugar
35 grams AP
65 grams hazelnut flour
20 grams cocoa
Mix all ingredients, lay evenly on a sheet tray and bake at 325 until golden.
I put on my apron with rushing creativity (& the new hipstamatic foodie snappak itching to be used) and ended up with..
A creamy coconut semi-freddo with a savory sweet corn custard, a spice crumb made of cinnamon, cloves and molasses, and the most amazing part; the fried coconut milk solids that go on top of the corn custard. (I wanted so bad to add fried coconut milk solids to the title but how do you make fried coconut milk solids sound sexy? fried coconut milk solids. fried coconut milk solids. fried coconut milk solids. Can’t be done.) It’s the process of boiling coconut milk until the fat and solids separate, & the coconut fat fries the coconut milk solids to toasty perfection. I’ll do a separate post on the subject. In the meanwhile, I have this to enjoy (Did I mention it’s only noon?) It’s going to be a good Wednesday.
Fried Coconut Milk Solids is called “latik”